Once upon a time there was the Paolo Bea winery, and once upon a time there was also a – very limited – group of uncompromising organic winegrowers who consciously bottled wines that were perhaps natural, though they didn’t say so, because the term “natural” had not yet entered the commercial vocabulary of wine. Among the few that come to mind are Fiammetta Inga of Podere Marella near Lake Trasimeno, Polidori vinifying between Perugia and the Upper Tiber valley, and Di Filippo in the Sagrantino area. If they belonged to any association of organic producers, they would display the organic certification seal on the label, but no one would have dreamed of saying – or worse, writing – that it was a natural wine. In fact, leafing through one of the earliest international publications on natural wines – in this specific case, orange wines, the book Amber Revolution by the English author Simon J. Woolf – the only Umbrian winery mentioned in 2017 (which already feels like prehistory) was Paolo Bea.
Today, on the contrary – at least in our experience here in Umbria, where we have been involved in wine trading for at least fifteen years – it is rare for anyone embarking on a new venture in the wine world not to present themselves as natural. Declared, of course, because as we know, the word still cannot officially be written on the label. This article does not intend to delve into the complicated world of wine legislation, nor to spark yet another debate by seeking definitions of natural wine or highlighting the differences between those who farm organically or biodynamically and certify it as such, and those who produce natural wines and may or may not also certify them as organic or biodynamic. This is not the right place for that discussion, especially since, as we already know, in the absence of written rules governing natural wines, producers are not legally entitled to write “natural” on the label.
However, since we are an online shop specializing in Umbrian wines – and since, also thanks to our osteria di bocce, we open a great many bottles – and because in our small region we all more or less know one another, we would like to present a broad overview of what can be found in Umbria today: starting with the founding fathers and moving toward the newest arrivals, for whom we feel genuine sympathy. The itinerary we propose is not exhaustive. The wineries we mention – often just one or two hectares at most – are those we know personally and trust.
As a preview, to prepare you for what you will read or discover when visiting them, we can say that Grechetto and Trebbiano Toscano are somewhat ubiquitous throughout the region, as is the more aromatic Trebbiano Spoletino, well represented among natural producers even outside the areas of Spoleto and Montefalco, where it likely expresses itself best. Among white grapes, one also frequently encounters the ever-present Malvasia – or rather the various Malvasias – sometimes vinified on their own, sometimes blended with the aforementioned native varieties. Among red grapes, the common denominator – omnipresent and often vinified as a single variety – is Sangiovese. Ciliegiolo and the “super-Umbrian” Sagrantino are also widespread throughout the region. Of course, outside the Montefalco denomination one cannot write “Sagrantino” on the label, but it can certainly still be grown and vinified.
As mentioned at the beginning, once upon a time in Umbria – we are speaking of the 1990s, because before then even conventional producers rarely focused on bottling – there was Paolo Bea in Montefalco and little else. It is certainly to this historic winery, today about a dozen hectares managed and vinified by Gianpiero Bea, that we owe the successful attempt to macerate Trebbiano Spoletino: his Arboreus is now considered one of the most interesting macerated white wines in the world. The same winery deserves credit for having made Sagrantino di Montefalco famous among those who, twenty or thirty years ago, already preferred small artisanal wineries and biodynamic methods over conventional production.
Today, remaining in the Sagrantino area, we can certainly include among natural wine producers – and, with its 23 hectares of vineyards, among the largest of this type – the Fongoli winery. The estate has existed since the early 1900s and has always farmed according to biodynamic principles, officially displaying organic certification. Like the vast majority who practice biodynamics without certifying it, they have not sought biodynamic certification, and have only held organic certification since 2013. Here one finds Sagrantino, Montefalco Rosso (also in the Riserva version), Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto. Founded much more recently but rapidly climbing the popularity rankings, the Raìna winery of Francesco Mariani has produced natural wines since its founding in 2002. Organic certification dates back to its early years, while more recently it has begun to adopt certain biodynamic practices across its total of 10 hectares of vineyards.
We cannot fail to mention, still in the same area, the multifaceted Diego Calcabrina who, in addition to delighting us for over ten years with his refined goat cheeses, has – ever since he decided to become a farmer – cultivated Sangiovese and Sagrantino to produce single-varietal reds and rosés. Production volumes are niche, but his wines are highly appreciated by lovers of his cheeses who discover this earlier winemaking vocation. Nor can we forget the solo project of the young oenologist Andrea Pesaresi with his winery Alma Raminga. Having trained in the territory at one of the historic organic estates, Di Filippo (where he still works in the cellar), he has in recent years launched his own initiative in the countryside near Foligno, between the Montefalco and Spoleto denominations, bottling several very interesting native single-varietal wines.
Having completed our exploration of the Sagrantino area, in the Monti Martani and Spoleto zone we find what is likely one of the first three Umbrian wineries dear to lovers of natural wine, despite producing from only 5 hectares: Collecapretta of the Mattioli family. It is here, from Mount Martano which shelters and regulates airflow in the valley below, and from the meeting between a traditional yet forward-looking ownership (father Vittorio and daughters Annalisa and Beatrice) and a self-taught local oenologist, that much of the early-2000s ferment around Umbrian natural wines developed. Yes, we repeat once again that Paolo Bea was already there before Collecapretta and the others, but this sacred monster has always played in a league of its own. It can be said without falsehood that only thanks to Collecapretta’s early natural experiments, under the technical guidance of oenologist Danilo Marcucci – around macerations of Trebbiano Spoletino, spontaneous fermentations and unfiltered Malvasia and Ciliegiolo – did true curiosity about natural wines arise in Umbria.
Initially, Collecapretta even supported Terra di Rovo for harvest and vinification, albeit for very niche production: just two single-varietal wines, a macerated Trebbiano Spoletino and a structured Cabernet Sauvignon from a total of 1.5 organically farmed hectares. Also in Spoleto, testifying to the presence of a distinctive terroir, the project of Gianluca Piernera, owner of the Ninni winery, stands out for the cleanliness, freshness and elegance of his reds and the drinkability of his Trebbiano Spoletino.
Returning to the phenomenon that developed around the collaboration between Collecapretta and Danilo Marcucci, it should be noted that today Danilo has his own estate a few kilometers from Lake Trasimeno. Under the label Conestabile della Staffa, he seeks to demonstrate that even in the milder lakeside climate, Gamay and Grechetto can yield excellent natural results. Danilo also advises, here and there, on how to implement natural principles in vineyard and cellar at Piccolo Podere del Ceppaiolo near Assisi and at Tiberi in the Perugia area.
Remaining around Perugia, we find the Margò winery, confirming that structured Grechetto and age-worthy Sangiovese can be produced in Umbria even along the natural path. In the DOCG area of Torgiano, along the Tiber river, the project of Fattoria Mani di Luna is now well established, demonstrating that natural wines can also be made within the strict regulations of one of the region’s two DOCG denominations. Nearby, south of Perugia as the Tiber flows toward southern Umbria, Roberto Di Filippo has recently embarked on his own fully natural venture with the Plani Arche winery, following his separation from his sister, who retained the Di Filippo estate mentioned earlier.
Continuing south along the river into the Marsciano area, the youthful initiative of Giulio and Luca of Lumiluna stands out. Their wines are remarkable expressions not only of Grechetto and Sangiovese but also of Syrah and Ciliegiolo. Equally original is the collaborative and shared project of the Collettivo Colbacco, producing just a few highly sought-after bottles. Among its members, in addition to Lumiluna, is Marco Durante, who also produces under the Il Signor Kurtz label between Corciano and Perugia, working rented vineyards and reclaimed abandoned plots, releasing new labels each year.
Between the two provinces, in the hilly DOC Todi area, the natural experience of the Italian-American couple running Agrisegretum is also noteworthy, with several important expressions of Sangiovese, including a certified organic DOC Todi. Returning toward Perugia along the Tiber, we encounter Sara Gallina of Montecorneo570 and, not far away, brothers Marco and Roberto Lepri of the Lepri winery; both offer noteworthy interpretations of Trebbiano Toscano as well as Pinot Grigio and Cabernet.
Further north, Marco Merli was among the first to focus on natural wines, once producing under the now nearly disappeared Colli Altotiberini DOC. More recently, near Casa del Diavolo, we met the young couple behind the Terra Vitae project. Continuing north along the Tiber and leaving the municipality of Perugia, in Umbertide we meet siblings Andrea and Pilar Gritti, who have intelligently converted part of their large family estate to natural production, impressing with artisanal versions of Pinot Nero and Malvasia Nera alongside Grechetto, Ciliegiolo and Syrah. After all, Cortona – famous for Syrah – is not far from this part of Umbria.
Further north still, at higher altitude in Gubbio, Giulia Ricci and her husband have embraced a mountain viticulture approach since 2016 at the Antonioli winery, producing fresh natural wines. Notably, their old mixed vineyards include Piedmontese varieties such as Barbera and Dolcetto.
Moving west toward Lake Trasimeno, on the western side that already speaks a bit of Siena, another estate claiming a leading role in Umbrian natural wine is Fontesecca, originally organic and later moving toward natural practices. Lake-grown Ciliegiolo in red and rosé versions, major interpretations of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, and long-lived white blends define their production.
From the province of Terni, particularly in the fascinating Orvieto area with its volcanic soils and tuffaceous hills planted with Drupeggio and Procanico, natural wine ferment is not yet widespread. Still, our wine list proudly features the Malauva project – another example of reclaiming abandoned vineyards or converting formerly conventional vines toward biodynamics – as well as the very small project of Riccardo Danielli in the municipality of Allerona, about 4 hectares, contributing to a complete panorama of Umbrian varieties with natural production of Verdello and Aleatico.
We close our symbolic itinerary – or rather, our wandering through green Umbria – in the greenest and coolest area of the region: the Valnerina in the province of Terni. Here, in the municipality of Arrone, starting from his grandfather’s vineyards, the young Francesco Annesanti launched his own project. Among natural producers, he may well claim – despite his young age and that of his fledgling winery – to have been the first in Umbria to experiment with amphora maturation for some of his crus: Pinot Nero, Trebbiano Spoletino, and a Grechetto-Malvasia blend. This does not mean that his younger single-varietal Barbera or Merlot expressions are any less compelling.
