If in Umbria you say olive tree, you say home. In fact, in our green region it is truly impossible to turn your gaze even just a few degrees without encountering a hillside colored by the silver of olive leaves. Statistics show over 6 million olive trees divided among approximately 35,000 olive-growing farms in our very small region, demonstrating the extremely small average farm size—fewer than 200 trees per farm—while at the same time confirming how widespread olive cultivation is. Even in town, there is hardly a garden or house entrance without at least one olive tree decorating it. The olive tree is our environment, and extra virgin olive oil is our culture.
As often happens in Italy in every agricultural and gastronomic field, each region, province, town, and hamlet has its own tradition. That is the beauty and richness of our country. From a production standpoint, Umbria boasts a single Protected Designation of Origin, the Umbria PDO, which is divided into several subzones based on territorial classification—Colli Assisi-Spoleto, Colli Martani, Colli del Trasimeno, Colli Amerini, and Colli Orvietani—reflecting the predominant presence of specific cultivars or varieties. In short, each area almost always has one olive variety that numerically prevails or at least characterizes that specific territory.
Source: Strada dell’Olio Dop Umbria
Moraiolo, the most widespread variety in Umbria and certainly throughout central Italy, is present in all subzones but particularly characterizes production in what is considered the most suitable area of our region: the hills that run from Assisi, protecting the Umbrian Valley from the east, down to Spoleto. Here we find some of the most representative mills producing extra virgin olive oils of the highest quality, especially between Foligno, Trevi, and Campello sul Clitunno.
Moraiolo is often produced as a single-varietal oil, although in this case it cannot bear the PDO label because production regulations require a blend in which Moraiolo must be predominant but not exclusive. It is worth noting that PDO certification is optional, not mandatory, and involves costs that very small producers often choose not to bear due to bureaucratic and economic considerations. Sometimes even larger, well-structured companies decide not to request PDO certification for specific batches that do not meet required blend percentages. This is always the case for monocultivar oils—produced from olives of a single variety—which, even if made from Umbrian olives and sometimes the finest ones, cannot obtain PDO certification because of their single-variety composition.
Focusing now on monocultivar oils produced in Umbria from Umbrian olives, let us examine the main native varieties and the oils obtained from them.
Moraiolo oil appears deep green with warm golden-yellow reflections. On the nose it is complex and powerful, with fresh herbaceous notes, hints of artichoke and mint, sage and basil, which on the palate translate into a balance of bitterness and pungency, both pronounced. The Moraiolo tree is generally small and slender yet robust and flexible, well adapted to steep and often rugged terrain.
Leccino and Frantoio, two other typical central Italian varieties, are also widespread and often produced as single-varietals. They yield fragrant and flavorful oils that are generally more balanced in aroma and taste compared to pure Moraiolo. Leccino typically shows a golden-yellow color with delicate green reflections. On the nose it offers clear notes of mint and basil, sometimes chicory, artichoke, and lettuce. On the palate it is fruity and harmonious, with hints of field vegetables and sweet almond. Bitterness and pungency are present but well balanced.
Frantoio oil is intense yellow with green reflections. Aromas of artichoke and lettuce dominate, accompanied by spicy notes of black pepper. On the palate it is enveloping and decisive, with evident hints of rosemary and mint.
However, this article aims to explore other typical cultivars such as San Felice, Dolce Agogia, Raio, and Nostrale di Rigali, found more frequently in specific areas of the region. Each territory, due to natural vocation (morphology, exposure, climate) and centuries of tradition, tends to favor one specific variety over another.
San Felice is especially appreciated and cultivated in the central hilly area known as Colli Martani, between the provinces of Perugia and Terni. Towns such as Montefalco, Bevagna, Giano dell’Umbria (where the abbey from which the variety takes its name is located), Torgiano, Todi, Massa Martana, and Bettona are part of this area. San Felice oil is intense yellow with delicate emerald reflections, offering aromas of cardoon, artichoke, and dried fruit. On the palate, bitterness and pungency are present but less pronounced than in Moraiolo, accompanied by freshness and sweet almond notes.
Around Lake Trasimeno, where the climate is milder, Dolce Agogia is the most cultivated variety. As the name suggests, it produces a sweeter oil with medium fruitiness, featuring notes of fresh grass, green apple, and dried fruit. It appears yellow with light green nuances. It is mainly found in lakeside municipalities such as Magione and Passignano and areas bordering Tuscany. It does not adapt well to harsher climates and is absent from areas near the Umbrian-Marche Apennines.
In those cooler Apennine areas—Gualdo Tadino, Nocera, Gubbio, Valfabbrica—Nostrale di Rigali thrives. This robust and frost-resistant native variety takes its name from a small hamlet of Gualdo Tadino. Alongside classic fresh grass and artichoke aromas, it often features tomato notes.
Finally, Raio (or Rajo), grown in the Amelia area of Terni, presents aromas and flavors of walnut husk and tomato, alongside fresh-cut grass, artichoke, and balsamic notes of sage and rosemary. Bitterness is more decisive than in other varieties, and pungency is well pronounced, with spicy black pepper hints.
There are also minor native Umbrian varieties rarely found as single-varietals and more commonly present in mixed groves: Pocciolo, Vocio, Tendellone, Correggiolo, Orbetana, Borgiona, and Bianchella di Umbertide.
We cannot conclude without recalling that high-quality extra virgin olive oil, wherever it is produced, must come from healthy, fresh olives harvested at no more than 50% ripeness (semi-veraison). Olives must be promptly milled in facilities that carefully control all technical aspects to avoid oxidation: rapid processing, equipment cleaning, temperature control during malaxation, and minimizing air exposure until bottling.
Once you have an Umbrian extra virgin olive oil of one of these varieties on your table, it is up to you to choose the best pairing. Umbrian cuisine is simple and rustic, emphasizing raw material quality. The more intense oils—Moraiolo, Raio, Nostrale di Rigali, or San Felice—are delicious even on a simple slice of unsalted bread, as bruschetta or fresh bread. This is also a family ritual in October and November when the new oil is produced.
Throughout the year, they are perfect for seasoning legume soups or cereal and legume soups generously. They are also excellent over a slice of Chianina beef, lightly seared and dressed with abundant oil and a pinch of salt. More delicate oils such as Dolce Agogia, Frantoio, or Leccino pair better with lake fish or a first course with black truffle.
In short, a different oil for every occasion—many oils to enjoy discovering the countless aromatic and flavor nuances of nature.
